{"id":88,"date":"2010-08-27T22:19:00","date_gmt":"2010-08-27T21:19:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/?p=88"},"modified":"2016-09-18T16:49:00","modified_gmt":"2016-09-18T15:49:00","slug":"peru-trip-10-cuzco-to-ollantaytambo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/peru-trip-10-cuzco-to-ollantaytambo\/","title":{"rendered":"Peru Trip #10 &#8211; Cuzco to Ollantaytambo"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624820824024\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/condors.jpg\" alt=\"Condors at the Animal Rescue Centre, near Cuzco - click to see more on Flickr\" style=\"float:left\"><\/a><br \/>\nSo last night I decided to throw caution to the wind and try out one of the posh restaurants of Cusco &#8211; with my credit card.  Bistrot was recommended by my Cusco tour guide so I got the hotel to book me a table, and went up for dinner there at 8pm.  The food was excellent &#8211; clearly a properly trained, imaginative chef.  The service was worse than amateur &#8211; embarrassing.  Once I had got past the language difficulty of wanting a decent bottle from the reasonably good list, rather than just a glass of the local Peruvian Tacama white wine &#8211; not bad, but not appropriate for a posh dinner &#8211; I had to offer to take over opening the expensive bottle of wine, wincing as the waitress struggled with it, with all the promise of bits of cork ending up in the wine.  A nice enough girl, friendly, willing, but with barely any English and barely any training as a waitress.  My Jumbo River Prawns were cooked to perfection in a delicious sauce, but again I had quite a struggle (and an empty side plate delivered) before managing to get a small bowl of warm water to wash my fingers.  Hopefully they&#8217;ll serve one with the prawns to future guests.  I realised this was quite a new venture, only open a short time, with much to learn.  The best thing about the dining experience, however, was the other two diners in the restaurant, a couple from London in their &#8216;gap year&#8217; between work and retirement, touring the world.  Had a really nice chat with them.  Bolivia, they say, is even cheaper than Peru, Argentina about the same, but Brazil as expensive as Europe.  Like me, they have found everyone they&#8217;ve met to be very friendly, and felt no threat at all, despite all the warnings.  We conclude that it must be backpacking poor student travellers in cheap hostels that tend to experience the underside we have been warned of, and that we are cushioned by the reach of our wallets.  Having to buy a bottle to get a nice wine with my delicious River and ShellFish &#8216;Parihuela,&#8217; which came with the lovely Peruvian garlic rice I already enjoyed in the north, I of course was pretty happy by the end of the meal, chatting with the other diners.  It was a shame that the service was so poor, and that, in the end, despite the signs, they seemed incapable of making their EFTPOS handheld work, either with MasterCard or VISA, and I had to part with half of my remaining cash for this lovely dinner &#8211; money well spent, but which I had wanted to put on the credit card to pay later, not pay for out of the rest of my holiday cash.  I made no bones about ensuring they knew my displeasure.  My fellow guests were equally put out by this, though perhaps less surprised than I that the signs turned out to be misleading, at best.  I still made sure they complimented the chef though !<\/p>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/M88ZLiGOXvE\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/salud.jpg\" style=\"float: right; margin-left: 10px; margin-bottom: 5px; border: 0px solid;\" title=\"Me drinking Chicha in an Inca bar\" alt=\"Me drinking Chicha in an Inca bar\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p>So this morning I awoke somewhat hungover &#8211; from wine rather than<br \/>\naltitude, for a change &#8211; and was treated as a first stop to an animal<br \/>\nrescue centre, caring for exotic Andean creatures with injuries, or<br \/>\nsaved from the black market, and returning them, when ready, to the<br \/>\nwild.  I met three condors &#8211; huge carrion birds &#8211; a couple of pumas, and<br \/>\nsome large parrots.  On the road away from here, the devastation caused<br \/>\nby the flooding in the last rainy season becomes all too apparent, with<br \/>\nthe road washed away in places down to a single carriageway. Six months<br \/>\nago, this area experienced twice the normal rainfall and, among other<br \/>\nthings, the railway up to Macchu Picchu was severely damaged (and<br \/>\nrepaired by June, thankfully!) The next stop was a traditional Inca bar,<br \/>\na homely pub where they make their own &#8216;chicha&#8217; &#8211; a maize corn beer,<br \/>\nserved straight to the men and brewed with strawberries and served with a<br \/>\nsprinkling of herbs on top to the women.  Very nice, I&#8217;d say! <\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/silverworks.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"Silversmith grinding semi-precious stones and shells into small pieces and gluing them into silver jewelry with tree resin\" alt=\"Silversmith grinding semi-precious stones and shells into small pieces and gluing them into silver jewelry with tree resin\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p>\nThird was Pisak, and its famous market, where I was able to use the<br \/>\ncredit card to stock up on Peruvian silver (95% alloy with copper, like<br \/>\nBritannia Silver, better than Sterling Silver which is only 92.5%)<br \/>\nbeautifully worked by local craftsmen, with the famous Macchu Picchu<br \/>\nserpentine (flecked with iron-pyrites and haematite), Peruvian smokey<br \/>\nquartz, local obsidian, and a particularly lovely skyblue local<br \/>\nsodalite, worked into the silver casings with local tree resin for glue.<br \/>\nVery lovely.  I also parted with some dollars for the rug I have been<br \/>\nlooking for ever since I arrived in Peru, and had a sneaking suspicion I<br \/>\nmight find here.  Natural dyes and hand-woven, I got one with the Inca<br \/>\ncalendar in red, black, and blue.  Very nice.  I feel like a good<br \/>\ntourist now, with my souvenirs and gifts for friends back home.<\/p>\n<p><a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624821100386\/\"><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/ollantaytambo.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" alt=\"Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p><\/a><br \/>\nSo the main event of the morning, and I am thankfully quite awake by now<br \/>\n(parting with money often has that effect).  Ollantaytambo sits at the<br \/>\njunction of three valleys, including the Cusco valley, and the Sacred<br \/>\nValley where Macchu Picchu lies.  The winds combine here and the Incas,<br \/>\ngreat technicians that they were, built their storage houses just where<br \/>\nthe winds meet and keep the temperature a good 3-4deg lower than on the<br \/>\nvalley floor.  Either side of the river in the middle of the valley they<br \/>\nbuilt houses for the common people on one side, and the royal compound<br \/>\non the other.  A tambo is literally that &#8211; a staging post for the royal<br \/>\nhousehold on its journeys around the empire.<br \/>\n<a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624821100386\/\"><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/ollantaytamboterraces.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"The Terraces at Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" alt=\"The Terraces at Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p><\/a><br \/>\nThe terraces here are extremely cleverly formed, with different clays<br \/>\nand soils and at different altitudes to create a series of<br \/>\nmicro-climates perfect for potatoes, beans, fruits, and coca leaves &#8211;<br \/>\nyes jungle coca leaves growing in the corner of the Sacred Valley,<br \/>\nrather than imported like pretty much everywhere else. <br \/>\n<a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624821100386\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/ollantaytamboprofile.jpg\" style=\"float: left; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 5px; border: 0px solid;\" title=\"The Profile in the Mountain overlooking Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" alt=\"The Profile in the Mountain overlooking Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/a><br \/>\nThe mountain with the cold storage houses also sports a carved human<br \/>\nprofile near its peak, as viewed from the Temple of the Sun at the top<br \/>\nof the terraces behind the royal compound.  On the winter solstice on<br \/>\nJune 21st the sun rises over distant mountains right at the third eye of<br \/>\nthis profile, and shines directly across the valley hitting the Temple<br \/>\nof the Sun first before anywhere else.  Coming from sources unknown,<br \/>\npure mountain spring water at constant temperature and flow appears from<br \/>\nspouts into channels to snake around the terraces as irrigation, and &#8211;<br \/>\nmost beautifully of all &#8211; to create a series of pleasure garden channels<br \/>\nthrough the royal compound.  One wonders if they maybe even had<br \/>\nfountains, after the moorish fashion of contemporary buildings across<br \/>\nthe Atlantic like the Alhambra.  The whole place is like a holiday<br \/>\nresort in that sense, with the old Inca town square with its flowing<br \/>\nwater channel today&#8217;s tourist market at the entrance to the<br \/>\narchaeological site: the royal compound, terraces, and what remains of<br \/>\nthe Temples the Spanish left behind, when they broke them down to use<br \/>\nthe stone to build their churches.  The common people&#8217;s side of town is<br \/>\nstill lived in, Inca streets running up the hills from the main street<br \/>\ninto town.<br \/>\n<a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/%20\/\"><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/ollantaytambowaterfeature.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"Water feature with tap at Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" alt=\"Water feature with tap at Ollantaytambo - click to see more on Flickr\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p><\/a><br \/>\nLast stop is at Tunupa, a fantastic buffet restaurant for tourist buses,<br \/>\nwith excellent food, and a delightful riverside garden, where I eat<br \/>\nheartily before being dropped at my hotel prior to tomorrow&#8217;s early<br \/>\nmorning trip to Macchu Picchu.<br \/>\n<a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624696408905\/\"><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/tunupariver.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"The river at the bottom of the gardens at Tunupa Restaurant - click to see more on Flickr\" alt=\"The river at the bottom of the gardens at Tunupa Restaurant - click to see more on Flickr\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>So last night I decided to throw caution to the wind and try out one of the posh restaurants of Cusco &#8211; with my credit card. Bistrot was recommended by my Cusco tour guide so I got the hotel to book me a table, and went up for dinner there at 8pm. The food was &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/peru-trip-10-cuzco-to-ollantaytambo\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Peru Trip #10 &#8211; Cuzco to Ollantaytambo&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-88","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archaeology","category-journeyman"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/88","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=88"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/88\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":920,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/88\/revisions\/920"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=88"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=88"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=88"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}