{"id":81,"date":"2010-08-19T00:39:00","date_gmt":"2010-08-18T23:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/?p=81"},"modified":"2016-09-18T16:49:57","modified_gmt":"2016-09-18T15:49:57","slug":"peru-trip-3-trujillo-and-the-cassinelli-museum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/peru-trip-3-trujillo-and-the-cassinelli-museum\/","title":{"rendered":"Peru Trip #3 &#8211; Trujillo and the Cassinelli Museum"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624756066040\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/trujillooutskirts.jpg\" style=\"float: left; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 5px; border: 0px solid;\" title=\"Trujillo outskirts\" alt=\"Trujillo outskirts\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/a>Con-Air : Cameron Poe the honour-bound dominant dysfunctional male, somehow apposite here in Peru with its macho culture and all the crime and violence I have been warned about, where armed security men check bus passengers for weapons and video everyone&#8217;s face once all aboard, seated in our airline seats in this double-decker coach, watching the dubbed movie. I am grateful for the comfy seat on this 3hr drive, but listen to Anthony and the Johnsons, Rufus Wainwright, and Aqualung on shuffle on my iPhone &#8211; a much softer, more varied, more interesting selection of masculinities than those on Con-Air. <\/p>\n<p>\nSeeing a bit more of northern Peru, from the bus, I take a few random<br \/>\nphotos to try to capture the state of (un)development here.  One thing I<br \/>\nwill say, however, despite all the warnings, all the security, etc etc &#8211;<br \/>\neveryone I have met here in northern Peru has been very friendly, very<br \/>\nhelpful, very warm.  I know I&#8217;m in a bubble, chaperoned everywhere I go,<br \/>\nbut I haven&#8217;t sensed any threat at all.<\/p>\n<p>And so Trujillo!  It&#8217;s a Spanish imperial town, in the centre at least,<br \/>\nand I am taken quickly around some of the grand houses they left behind,<br \/>\nand the ones built shortly after the start of the republic in the early<br \/>\n19th century.  It is strange to see so much European architecture and<br \/>\nfurnishings here.  But what I am really looking forward to today, and<br \/>\nwhich we quickly move on to, is the Cassinelli Museum.  Signor<br \/>\nCassinelli, about 85yrs old now, is in the reception room, with his<br \/>\nyoung wife, when I get there, and personally greets me.  He has been<br \/>\nbuying ceramics from the haqueros (the grave robbers) for decades, and<br \/>\nis well known and liked for saving these ceramics for Peru, rather than<br \/>\nletting them go abroad where they could never be seen.  The basement<br \/>\nwhere a third of the collection is on view, is under a petrol station,<br \/>\nand it is dearly hoped that this private collection will one day get a<br \/>\nbetter building!  His son is downstairs, guarding their treasure, as my<br \/>\nguide and I look around.  I took <a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624631457909\/\">a LOT of photographs &#8211; all on Flickr <\/a><br \/>\n&#8211; but here are one or two to get a flavour.  This is without doubt a<br \/>\nbigger and better collection than that at Larco Herrera, for all that it<br \/>\nis in such a tiny room in comparison.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/gaycouplepot.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"A (same-sex?) couple ceramic in the Erotic Moche ceramics cupboard\" alt=\"A gay couple ceramic in the Erotic Moche ceramics cupboard\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/shavenpriest.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"A shaven Moche priest?\" alt=\"A shaven Moche priest?\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/mocheportraitc.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"One of many Moche portrait ceramics\" alt=\"One of many Moche portrait ceramics\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p>\nAt the end of my visit, I am honoured to have further (interpreted)<br \/>\nconversation with Signor Cassinelli, and even a picture with him.  My<br \/>\nguide has made it clear to him how very much I was looking forward to<br \/>\nseeing his collection, and how with how much delight I have enjoyed it.<br \/>\nHe, in return, is honoured to have me visit him, all the way from<br \/>\nEngland.<br \/>\n<a rel=\"external\" href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/da5idgpk\/sets\/72157624631457909\/\"><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/blog\/export_genericmt.php_files\/mewithcassinelli.jpg\" style=\"border: 0px solid;\" title=\"Me with Signor Cassinelli\" alt=\"Me with Signor Cassinelli\" class=\"pivot-image\"><\/p>\n<p><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Con-Air : Cameron Poe the honour-bound dominant dysfunctional male, somehow apposite here in Peru with its macho culture and all the crime and violence I have been warned about, where armed security men check bus passengers for weapons and video everyone&#8217;s face once all aboard, seated in our airline seats in this double-decker coach, watching &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/peru-trip-3-trujillo-and-the-cassinelli-museum\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Peru Trip #3 &#8211; Trujillo and the Cassinelli Museum&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-81","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-archaeology","category-journeyman"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/81","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=81"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/81\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":905,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/81\/revisions\/905"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=81"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=81"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=81"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}