{"id":1856,"date":"2026-06-05T07:58:58","date_gmt":"2026-06-05T06:58:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/?p=1856"},"modified":"2026-06-06T21:53:59","modified_gmt":"2026-06-06T20:53:59","slug":"nepal-bhutan-may-2026-5","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/nepal-bhutan-may-2026-5\/","title":{"rendered":"Nepal-Bhutan May 2026 #5"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/nepal-bhutan-may-2026\/\">Post #1<\/a> | <a href=\"https:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/nepal-bhutan-may-2026-2\/\">Post #2<\/a> | <a href=\"https:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/nepal-bhutan-may-2026-3\/\">Post #3<\/a> | <a href=\"https:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/nepal-bhutan-may-2026-4\/\">Post #4<\/a> | <a href=\"https:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/nepal-bhutan-may-2026-5\/\">Post #5<\/a><\/p>\n<p><b>Bhutan<br \/>\n<\/b>What an enchanting country! Land of the Thunder Dragon, where Gross National Happiness (GNH) is officially more important than gross national production, a land devoted to (mostly Tibetan) Buddhism brought south by the venerated Tibetan Lama Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century CE, but with its own little twists &#8211; mainly from the Tibetan Lama Zhabdrung, the founder of the modern nation in the 17th century. These two figures often make a trio of statues, in the Temples here, with the Buddha in the middle.<\/p>\n<p>Here, although there is also clearly some poverty, the country seems better off than Nepal.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The roads and the buildings I see beside them certainly give that impression &#8211; and everything has a definite Bhutanese style, which is evident the moment one arrives.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>1\/6\/26<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1880\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1880\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7584.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1880 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7584-300x80.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"80\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7584-300x80.jpeg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7584-1024x273.jpeg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7584-768x205.jpeg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7584-1200x320.jpeg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7584.jpeg 1334w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1880\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kathmandu to Paro<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The journey from Kathmandu to Paro &#8211; Bhutan\u2019s only International Airport &#8211; passes several of the highest mountains in the world, including the iconic Everest.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am truly blessed with a beautiful morning and an extraordinarily good view of the mountain peaks, from my seat on the left-hand side of the plane (arranged by my tour operator!).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1879\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1879\" style=\"width: 840px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1879\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-1024x530.jpg\" alt=\"Everest\" width=\"840\" height=\"435\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-1024x530.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-300x155.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-768x397.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-1536x794.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-2048x1059.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7607-1200x621.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 1362px) 62vw, 840px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1879\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mount Everest &#8211; from the plane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The final approach, moreover, is like something out of a movie, where the plane swerves and turns through a series of valleys on its way down to land &#8211; fine if you\u2019re in a jet fighter but in a Boeing 737 it was an amazing ride!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Apparently there are only about 25 pilots qualified to make this landing at any one time.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I\u2019m not surprised!<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1881\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1881\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1881\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-300x275.jpg\" alt=\"Paro Airport\" width=\"300\" height=\"275\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-300x275.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-1024x938.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-768x703.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-1536x1407.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-2048x1876.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7622-1200x1099.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1881\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Paro Airport<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Paro Airport is the introduction to the wonder of Bhutan: as in most developed countries, planning permission and construction standards are required for any new building.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Here in Bhutan there is also a requirement to adhere to the national character, with carved wooden facades and everything else (as much as possible) in wood and stone.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Although arguably it makes all the buildings look rather similar, it also means that there is little (if any) of the brashness of global branding, ugly concrete blocks, or half-built brick blocks with steel reinforcements sticking out, as is so prevalent across Nepal.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It makes for a very beautiful place.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>When, amongst all the newer buildings, you discover the medieval ones, in the same style, but much older, you appreciate what they have done here.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is also true that fire and earthquake have destroyed some of the medieval buildings, but they have been completely rebuilt in the exact same style.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Bhutan\u2019s tourism, moreover, follows a policy of high-value\/low-impact.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There is a hefty tax all tourists pay just to be here. This keeps out most backpackers, and keeps down the numbers.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The places to visit, moreover, could clearly not handle high volume tourism, in any case.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It all makes for a sense of an exclusive holiday, and I feel truly fortunate.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1869\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1869\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1869\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Dressed in Gho\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-1200x1600.jpg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7735-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1869\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dressed in Gho<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Sonam, my guide, tells me a great deal about the country, about its history, and about its religion, the highlights of which I shall try to share in this blog.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He and his young driver, Doji, are &#8211; like most of the men I see here, attired in the national dress, which is a Gho &#8211; a robe which is hitched up in the middle with a tight sash, and arms that fold back on themselves with white cuffs tucked over them.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The robe thus makes for a kilt-like feel above the knee, with long black socks below. They look cool and quite practical in the heat here, and on the spur of the moment I include men\u2019s national dress in the short list of souvenirs I tell Sonam I would definitely like to acquire, hopefully with his advice on where best to get good quality examples.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I, of course, also want some \u201corgans\u201d as he describes them.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For one of things that most fascinates me about Bhutan is that the old religion here, which remained strong right up the 8th century CE when Buddhism arrived, was centred around the Phallus.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1877\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1877\" style=\"width: 157px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1877\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-157x300.jpg\" alt=\"Medieval stone phallus\" width=\"157\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-157x300.jpg 157w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-537x1024.jpg 537w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-768x1465.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-805x1536.jpg 805w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-1074x2048.jpg 1074w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-1200x2289.jpg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7634-scaled.jpg 1342w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 157px) 85vw, 157px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1877\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Medieval stone phallus<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>It was called Bon, and Bonpo Buddhism is a not unrelated development out of it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But the Tibetan Lama Drukpa Kunley, who came south to teach here in the c15th CE, brought the fascination with the phallus into Buddhism, too, such that representations of it, in paintings on buildings and in wooden and stone sculptures of it, are absolutely everywhere you look.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I love Bhutan. Land of the Thunder Dragon!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The white dragon on the national flag signifies purity, with a yellow triangle and an orange triangle signifying the administration of government twinned with the hierarchy of monastic life.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1878\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1878\" style=\"width: 244px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1878\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-244x300.jpg\" alt=\"National Museum \" width=\"244\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-244x300.jpg 244w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-832x1024.jpg 832w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-768x945.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-1248x1536.jpg 1248w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-1664x2048.jpg 1664w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7628-1200x1477.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 244px) 85vw, 244px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1878\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">National Museum<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>We visit the Taa Dzong (National Museum) first, which is a medieval building on seven floors filled with artefacts and information plaques, and Soram tells me many stories about the things we see.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is a fascinating immersion in Bhutanese history and culture.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am struck by the many Thangka paintings, and delighted by the many varied artefacts we see.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am also &#8211; by the end of it &#8211; exhausted by all the stairs, up and down, (having been awake since 4.30am, and up since 5.30am, to get here).<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Below the National Museum, the Rinpung Dzong medieval fortress, converted in modern times into an administrative centre for the Paro district and monastic centre, is a stunning building, with a really lovely Buddhist temple, and Soram takes me through explaining all the various statues and their mudras. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1882\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1882\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1882\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Ironlink Bridge\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7722-1-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1882\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ironlink Bridge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>On the drive, then, from Paro to Thimpu, we stop off at two smaller temples &#8211; Dungtse Lhakhang and Kyichu Lhakhang.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The first is a place where there is a small Buddhist temple inside a stupa &#8211; very unusual!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Bhutanese Stupas are square with a wide roof, but inside this one is hollow and incorporates four Buddhas facing in each direction.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The second is perched on a hillside above where two rivers meet, across an iron-link bridge.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The Lama Zhabdrung, who came from Tibet and brought the knowledge of finding iron ore and making iron rings, with which numerous bridges were made across the many rivers, is a very fondly remembered character in Bhutanese history.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He was also responsible for building many temples, and fortresses.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>2\/6\/26<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1876\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1876\" style=\"width: 247px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1876\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-247x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"247\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-247x300.jpg 247w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-843x1024.jpg 843w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-768x933.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-1264x1536.jpg 1264w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-1686x2048.jpg 1686w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Zhabdrung-Ngawang-Namgyal-1200x1458.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 247px) 85vw, 247px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1876\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>After a lovely stay at Terma Linca Hotel &#8211; where I tried some authentic Bhutanese food (very spicy!!) today\u2019s sightseeing took in the Memorial Chorten, the Buddha Dordenma Statue, the Takin Reserve, a Handmade Paper Factory, and the crossing of Dochula Pass.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>After breakfast, Soram helped me to dress properly in the Bhutanese Gho I bought yesterday, and all day I am complemented with smiles and appreciation both from the Bhutanese and some of the many Indian tourists that we meet along the way.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>With my long white beard, I am frequently told I resemble closely the highly venerated founder of Bhutan, Zhabdrung.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This Lama, my guide tells me, in the 17th century CE, was head of a district of Tibet called Druk, and held that position as a reincarnation of a particular boddhisatva. But the prime minister of Tibet, and a challenger who claimed that he was the reincarnation, and not this Lama, conspired to force him out of his role.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>To the south, one of the many small chiefdoms in the area that is now Bhutan gave him sanctuary.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He then was given the leadership of that chiefdom, and began to fight many battles to gradually unite all the chiefdoms into one, new kingdom.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Whilst these battles were underway, however, the usurper of the Druk region of Tibet discovered that the precious relic that was the most sacred possession of that district\u2019s governor had been taken by the Lama when he fled south.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>With his ally the Tibetan prime minister, he then began to invade south.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>So as well as fighting battles to unite the chiefdoms, he also had to fight off the Tibetan armies invading from the north.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>In the end he was successful in both endeavours, and established the new kingdom of Bhutan &#8211; which is another word for Druk (the name of his former Tibetan district), which means Dragon.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He held this new kingdom &#8211; the land of the Thunder Dragon &#8211; together for 85 years, including 50 years after he had died, when his immediate circle kept his death a secret, and only the power of his name kept chaos in check.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Eventually the truth got out, and, as expected, the kingdom quickly fell apart into separate chiefdoms again.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But the precedent had been set, and about another 120 years later, in 1907, a second founder united the kingdom once again and established a new kingdom under the Wangchuk Dynasty &#8211; the fifth generation of which is now the ruling monarch.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This new kingdom was set up as a dual space, half monarchy, half monastic order &#8211; <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Tibetan_dual_system_of_government\">a diarchal system<\/a> &#8211; which, although essentially a Tibetan form of government, is only extant now in Bhutan, with Tibet itself under Chinese control since 1959.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The King and the head of the religion sit side by side in matters of state, so in some senses it appears like a theocracy &#8211; but perhaps not dissimilar to that of the United Kingdom, where the King is also the Head of the Anglican Church and Bishops sit in the House of Lords.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The third king, who modernised Bhutan in the 1960s and 70s, building roads and hospitals and joining the UN, was followed by the fourth and incumbent King who in 2008 stepped back from absolute rule and established the country as a constitutional monarchy, with a democratically elected parliament &#8211; and Gross National Happiness as the national measure.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>But to prevent religious control of the parliament, the monks, nuns and senior clergy are not included in the franchise: they cannot vote.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Also to prevent corruption any politician campaigning for office found to have even offered sweets to entice voters can be banned from standing; whole parties can be disqualified if there is a whiff of graft.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The result, my guide tells me, is that the tourist taxes we pay don\u2019t end up in people\u2019s pockets, but are spent on the roads and hospitals and education that are all provided for free to the Bhutanese people. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1883\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1883\" style=\"width: 840px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-1883 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-1024x546.jpg\" alt=\"Tashichho Dzong\" width=\"840\" height=\"448\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-1024x546.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-300x160.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-768x409.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-1536x819.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-2048x1092.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7800-1200x640.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 1362px) 62vw, 840px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1883\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tashichho Dzong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>So, in my Bhutanese dress and with my long white beard, looking like the original founder of Bhutan is no bad thing.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The Bhutanese love their monarchy.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Most of the great fortresses, (Dzongs) that dot the landscape were built by him, in the late 17th and early 18th century, to fend off the Tibetans.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At Thimphu (the capital) we stopped to take pictures of the Tashichho Dzong along the way &#8211; a huge complex that now incorporates the Royal Residence, the Summer Palace of the head of the religion, the Parliament Building, and the Supreme Court.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>On our journey we take in some breathtaking views on the way up, at the top, and then on the way down from the mountain pass. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1868\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1868\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1868\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"At the Memorial Chorten\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7740-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1868\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">At the Memorial Chorten<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The Memorial Chorten, where we started the day, was built in memory of the 3rd King who died young, and is a place where many of the old folks of Thimphu gather, to sit in the shade during the heat of the day.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As everywhere else, it\u2019s no shoes and no photography at these temples, so I am only able to tell you that the artistry, craftsmanship, and incredible stories represented in these places are breathtaking.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is also true that, by now, I must confess I am starting to reach overload: there has been a lot to take in over the past days, first in Nepal and now in Bhutan, and my brain is getting saturated and less able to retain much of the information that I am being given by my very helpful guide.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>All Bhutanese learn English at school, and speak it well, so Sonam and Doji are able to communicate with me very well, which helps!<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1864\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1864\" style=\"width: 840px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1864\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Dordemna Buddha\" width=\"840\" height=\"630\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7761-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 1362px) 62vw, 840px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1864\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Dordenma Buddha<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The highlight of the day, for me, however, was the Dordenma Statue &#8211; an absolutely huge Buddha, with a Dorje (the thunderbolt of indestruction) at his feet, inside of which is an incredibly ornate temple.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The entire project is still unfinished, costing some $100m,<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>with donations from many other Buddhist countries, and this incredible monument sits on a ridge overlooking the capital, Thimphu, a city which snakes from north to south along a wide valley.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1866\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1866\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1866\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Festival at Dordenma\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7752-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1866\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Festival at Dordenma<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>At the giant Buddha, it is a festival day, and we walk in minutes before a member of the royal family arrives in a cavalcade of 4x4s, to be greeted by an array of Bhutanese army officers, and a range of monks &#8211; many in the orange robes denoting they are of the highest rank.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The VIPs take up their places under a separate group of small marquees to one side of the huge marquee where literally hundreds of devotees are gathered, all sitting on cushions on the floor, under the awnings at the feet of the Buddha.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<audio class=\"wp-audio-shortcode\" id=\"audio-1856-1\" preload=\"none\" style=\"width: 100%;\" controls=\"controls\"><source type=\"audio\/mpeg\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Dordenma1.m4a?_=1\" \/><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Dordenma1.m4a\">http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/Dordenma1.m4a<\/a><\/audio>\n<p>Over huge loudspeakers, a venerable Lama is intoning mantras: it is an oral transmission, a teaching and blessing from a great master to all who are interested &#8211; including, it seems, today, members of the royal family and the military, along with the most senior clergy in the country.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I am amazed, frankly, that we are all here without having been thoroughly searched, frisked, vetted, etc, but then that sort of security is clearly not needed here in the wonderful land of Bhutan.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1863\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1863\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1863\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"Takin\" width=\"300\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-300x300.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-1021x1024.jpg 1021w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-150x150.jpg 150w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-768x770.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-1532x1536.jpg 1532w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-2043x2048.jpg 2043w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7776-1200x1203.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1863\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Takin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>On the way to the pass we stop for a coffee and some mo-mo (delicious little dumplings) in a cafe at a preserve (you couldn\u2019t call it a zoo) where some of the potentially endangered indigenous wildlife of the region are conserved and cared for, including the national animal of Bhutan, the Takin.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I hadn\u2019t ever heard of one either.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It\u2019s a kind of a cross between a cow and a goat, and has a low rumble that is neither a low nor a bleat.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There are also Yak and local deer and some very colourful birds here.<\/p>\n<p>The high Dochula Pass (over 3000m) is cool &#8211; very welcome after the 23\u2019 heat of Thimphu, and especially welcome as the temperature at Punackha, where we are headed, is likely to be around 30\u2019.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is 2000 metres below the pass, whereas Thimphu was only 1000 below.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><b>3\/6\/26<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p>Today &#8211; the last proper day of sightseeing &#8211; began early at a nunnery only minutes from the hotel.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>I was delighted that in fact we arrived at breakfast time, and all the nuns were in the temple, intoning the mantras, banging the drums, blowing the clarinets, and being served butter tea and rice.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Invited in to sit quietly in a corner, it was such a privilege to witness this at the same time homely and devout ceremony.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The nuns ranged in age from toddlers to middle-aged.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Teenagers served the tea and food.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Older women supervised.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>On the secondary throne (not the empty one reserved for the head of the religion) the Principal sat, leading the mantras.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This &#8211; apart from myself and my guide &#8211; was the only man in the room.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At the end of the breakfast, he stood and walked over to the altar side of the temple, and gave a little lecture to the assembled females.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>There were titters and some laughter &#8211; obviously whatever he had to say he was doing so with humour.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>My guide explained to me afterwards that he was telling the women that the ritual cakes they made as offerings should be uniform in shape, and that the tray offered up this morning included quiet a variety of shapes and sizes.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Many of the guides bringing tourists here, he told them, grew up as monks and they will be able to tell; and besides these are offerings to the Buddha and to the Boddhisatvas, and this should be done properly.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>For all the criticism it was all clearly done with compassion and humour.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The intoning of the mantras, and the banging of the big drums, and the piping of sacred clarinets, made for a mesmerising and very peaceful start to the day.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1862\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1862\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1862\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-768x1024.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-1200x1600.jpg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7855-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1862\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phallus Wall-Painting<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>We then drove to Chimi Lakhang, and the little village of Sopsoka &#8211; the beating heart of Bhutan\u2019s famous fascination with the erect penis: the phallus.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Readers of this blog may remember that 10 years ago I visited a Phallophoria at Tyrnavos\u00a0in Greece, and witnessed their celebrations of Clean Monday, where the whole village came out sporting big phalli, the baker made phallic loaves, and there were phalluses everywhere.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/category\/tyrnavos\/?order=asc\">I wrote a long blog-post about the Phallus around the world<\/a>, through history, much of which was later published as a chapter in a book about the Phallus, including many photographs that I had taken in various parts of the world. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1860\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1860\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1860\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Phallus Wall-Painting\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-768x1024.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-1200x1600.jpg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7864-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1860\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phallus Wall-Painting<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>One place that was not represented, which, although dimly aware of it, I did not mention because I had not been myself, was Chimi Lakhang, here in Bhutan.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is very wonderful to finally be here.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Almost every building here -rather than one here and there in the rest of Bhutan &#8211; has one or more large colourful phallus paintings on it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Many have wooden phalli hanging from the top corners of the roofs.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As you walk into the village, you realise quickly that this is a big high street of Chimi Lakhang \u2018tatt\u2019 &#8211; a veritable Glastonbury High Street of sacred items, a bit like Paro outside the airport, here.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1870\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1870\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1870\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Phalluses on sale\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7878-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1870\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phalluses on sale<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Except that more than half of the items on sale in this village &#8211; called Sopsoka &#8211; are erect penises. They come in all shapes and sizes, plain wooden, and brightly coloured, and painted with intricate designs.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At one shop I buy a large blue one with a white Druk painted onto it curving round the shaft, and an angry face on the glans at the top.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1859\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1859\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1859\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Hand-carved phalluses\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-768x1024.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-1200x1600.jpg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7888-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1859\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hand-carved phalluses<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>At another shop I see the man hand-carving his wares, and buy a pair of plain wooden ones.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Only one is varnished, but he says he will varnish the other for me and I can collect them both on my way back down by which time it will be dry.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>At the top of the village we come to the entrance to the Chimi Lakhang Temple, and take the short climb up the steps to the top.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is hard going in the 31\u2019 heat, up the steep steps, but I manage it, excited to be here at last.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The view from the top is wonderful. Under a tree my guide tells me the story of 15th century CE Lama Kinley Drukpa, the Divine Madman &#8211; the Tibetan Lama who came to this area and gave the most unorthodox teachings of all.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1867\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1867\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1867\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Phallus shop fun\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-768x1024.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-1200x1600.jpg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7875-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1867\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phallus shop fun<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>He used sex and alcohol and drugs and behaved in an outrageous manner to prove that the hierarchy and the establishment and all the \u2018right way\u2019 to do things were not necessary, if you had the right attitude inside. It seems clear he also found &#8211; in the pre-Buddhist Bon spirituality of this region, focussed around the phallus &#8211; a fascination with it that could not\/would not\/should not be dislodged, and so he<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>assimilated it.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Using his own phallus, shooting fire with it, he vanquished evil forces that were terrorising the traders trying to use the passes in and out of this valley: protecting the people.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He set up his Temple here, and gave teachings.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A couple having trouble getting a child to live beyond a few months brought their latest dead child to him, begging him for help.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>He took the child and threw it across the river.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The parents were shocked, but then saw a demon leap out of the child\u2019s dead body and run away, shouting over his shoulder that he would never trouble Lama Drukpa again. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1858\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1858\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1858\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Phallus above the door\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7948-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1858\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Phallus above the door<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Ever since then Lama Drukpa and his Phallus have been associated with protection, and with fertility, and couples come from all over the world to circle around the giant wooden phallus in the Temple for aid with fertility.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Of course there is no photography in the temple, but I can tell you it was a big one, and very beautifully carved. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The monks inside give tourists little coloured threads to tie around wrist or neck, which you must wear for several days, to bring you fertility and good luck.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Descending once more from the Temple, back through the shops, I buy a nice ritual dagger &#8211; the three-sided blade with which the three great sins of delusion\/ignorance; greed; and hate are vanquished, through wisdom, compassion, and power.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>We return to the shop with the carver, and he presents me with the pair of wooden phalli, the freshly varnished one already dry in the sun.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Driving away I am very pleased to been able to visit here at last.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1871\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1871\" style=\"width: 840px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1871\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Punacka Dzong\" width=\"840\" height=\"630\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7894-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 709px) 85vw, (max-width: 909px) 67vw, (max-width: 1362px) 62vw, 840px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1871\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Punakha Dzong<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Our last big stop of the day is the Punakha Dzong, probably the finest and most famous Dzong in Bhutan.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>It is breathtakingly beautiful.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Built &#8211; by Zhabdrung &#8211; in 1637 as a fortress (and maintained ever since) at the confluence of the Mother River and the Father River, the Mother-Father River flowing on from where they join, it is simply magnificent.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Today, as with the other Dzongs, it remains in dual use; part for the Government administration of this district, and part as a monastery.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>As we are quite high up here, it is the Summer Palace of the Head of the Religion, with the Winter Palace at the much lower Thimphu Dzong.<\/p>\n<p>Exhausted by now, in the heat, I am glad to return to the air-conditioned car, for the long drive (some two and half hours) up and over yet another pass, to my Hotel for this night, the Gangtey, overlooking the broad marshy valley that is the habitat of the black-necked crane, birds which I shall see in their sanctuary in the morning. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">4\/6\/26<br \/>\n<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1874\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1874\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1874\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Black-necked Crane\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-225x300.jpg 225w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-768x1024.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-1200x1600.jpg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7943-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1874\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Black-necked Crane<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>This centre for conservation effort takes pride in looking after two cranes wounded by predators &#8211; one a wild dog, the other a leopard &#8211; and enabling people to get up close to see them. There is a good deal of information and an excellent documentary in the centre, where I learn that one of the most important tasks of the centre is in educating the local farmers, who have become very successful in exporting their potato crops.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>A balance between development and conservation is the mantra of this centre.<\/p>\n<p>Lastly then, a visit to hilltop Gangtey Monastery, where the migratory cranes circle three times, each autumn, on their way down to the marshy valley bottom where they winter.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>This is a peaceful and friendly farewell to this lovely country, before my 5hour drive, back over the Dochula Pass, where we have coffee, to Thimphu and at last to Paro, where I check-in for my last night before the journey back to Kathmandu in the morning.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>5\/6\/26<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1901\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1901\" style=\"width: 225px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-scaled.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1901\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-225x300.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-225x300.jpeg 225w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-768x1024.jpeg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-1152x1536.jpeg 1152w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-1536x2048.jpeg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-1200x1600.jpeg 1200w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7996-scaled.jpeg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1901\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Swayambanath<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Finally, it remains for me to visit Swayambanath, on my last day in this trip &#8211; a Buddhist centre second only in importance to Boudhanath, here &#8211; and to take in the breathtaking splendour of this Stupa and Temple.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1872\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1872\" style=\"width: 300px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-scaled.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1872\" src=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"With Doji my driver, Dochula Pass\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-2048x1536.jpg 2048w, http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/IMG_7818-1200x900.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1872\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">With Doji my driver, Dochula Pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>But before I finish this blog, I must put in a good word for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.thirdrockadventures.com\">3rd Rock Adventures<\/a>, my tour operator. Naba, with whom I have been in very regular contact, first organising the tour, and then during it, and all his guides and drivers, have been attentive, knowledgeable, friendly, helpful, on-time, informative &#8211; I could go on but really, I couldn\u2019t have asked for better and couldn\u2019t recommend them more highly if you are considering a trip to this part of world. I did converse with one or two others, back in February, but even then Naba stood out as someone whom I could do business with, someone I could trust. It was a great holiday, and I am grateful.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\"><span class=\"s1\">In summary, I think I have seen and experienced as much as I am able and keen to of Bhutan, but that I would come back to Nepal again. There is Pokhara (Nepal\u2019s 2nd city) and Chitwan National Park, which I did not have time to visit on this occasion, and I would welcome the opportunity to visit Pashupatinath again &#8211; probably my favourite place of this entire trip, if I had to choose &#8211; and to stay again at the wonderful <a href=\"https:\/\/barahi.com\/properties\/hotel-barahi-kathmandu\/\">Barahi Hotel<\/a>, <\/span>which did much to make my stay in Kathmandu so comfortable.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Post #1 | Post #2 | Post #3 | Post #4 | Post #5 Bhutan What an enchanting country! Land of the Thunder Dragon, where Gross National Happiness (GNH) is officially more important than gross national production, a land devoted to (mostly Tibetan) Buddhism brought south by the venerated Tibetan Lama Guru Rinpoche in the &hellip; <a href=\"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/nepal-bhutan-may-2026-5\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Nepal-Bhutan May 2026 #5&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[38,8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1856","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-nepalbhutan2026","category-journeyman"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1856","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1856"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1856\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1902,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1856\/revisions\/1902"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1856"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1856"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/kreps.org\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1856"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}